With the fingerboard removed, I can see exactly what the problem is. The end of the round threaded bar in the following photo should extend about another inch - this is the point where it has snapped off.
There should then be a threaded nut, something like this picture below, attached to the end.
This is where the allen key fits to adjust the rod. Prising out the rod was easy - it sits in a well machined slot, but isn't glued in.
This next picture shows really clearly where the threaded portion snapped.
The rod can be pulled out from the channel. It's an interference fit at the top end that stops it rotating when tightened.
As a quick aside, the small piece of bar that you can see left in the truss rod channel is fundamental to how the truss rod works. It means that, when the threaded rod is inserted in the channel, it actually has a curve set into it. When you then tighten the threaded rod, it is essentially being shortened and wants to straighten out, so the truss rod channel takes on the curve instead (in the opposite direction) and transmits that curved shape to the neck because it is fixed in place.
So I think I have a couple of options now:
- buy a new truss rod of matching length etc. I might need to machine out the slot a little or pack it out for the new one to fit, or
- repair the existing rod by having a new piece of 5mm rod welded to the existing and cutting a new thread, and buy a new nut for the end.
Option 2 is probably my preferred option, depending on how much it will cost to do.
Actually, there might be a third option, which would be to totally remake the threaded rod - heat the top and belt it "blacksmith fashion" to make a mushroom shaped head on it and then cut a thread myself. That is quite appealing 😃. Watch this space ...
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